Sunday, September 22, 2013

5 Dishes Not to Miss in New York


Uni toast, Aldea, New York. 

Image: starchefs.com.

Aldea
Uni Toast ($10)
Crisp toast spread with cauliflower purée, then a layer of mustard seeds that seem to pop as if they were roe, lovely lobes of buttery uni, adorned with shiso and lime

Casa Mono
Skirt Steak ($17)
Indulgently fatty skirt steak on top of a chunky and smoky Romesco sauce, with a pile of onion mermelada dripping sweetness into the whole thing.

Roberta's 
Bee Sting Pizza ($15 lunch, $16 brunch)
The most delicious blend of sweet and spicy on a classic tomato sauce and mozzarella pizza because it's topped with sopressata, chili, and honey.

Luke's Lobster
Lobster Roll ($15)
Lump lobster meat barely dressed in a dash of mayonnaise, a flick of lemon-pepper butter, a speck of seasoning (thyme, oregano, celery salt, salt, black pepper) on a toasted and thankfully wimpy white bread roll

ABC Kitchen
Ice Cream Sundae ($14)
Salted caramel ice cream with candied peanuts, popcorn, a dark and velvety chocolate sauce, and whipped cream.

Runners-Up
Motorino: Brussels Sprouts and Pancetta Pizza ($16)
Jane: Vanilla Bean French Toast (brioche bread, crème brûlèe batter, Vermont maple syrup) ($15)
Ippudo: Karaka Men ramen ($14)


Tuesday, September 3, 2013

Rum Saffron Sour, Hotel Herman, Montreal

Labor Day weekend, Montreal

All our money went to food. Sure, we paid for airport taxis, the subway, and a whitewater rafting excursion down La Chine, but really, we blew all our money on food.

I have no regrets. Montreal has a unique dining scene and an admirably nationalistic palette for Québécois food. Think force meats and game, country style cheeses, maple, and lots of crusty bread.

One night we had planned to eat at Lawrence, but it was closed, and so we ended up down the block at Hotel Herman, where I ordered a "rum sour." Threads of saffron left minuscule streaks of orange in the soft egg whites balanced on top of this sweet and tangy drink. A sprinkle of cracked black pepper somehow tasted muted and mild.

We ate sea urchin served in their own shells with edible flowers and herbs from the restaurant's back garden. 
We passed on steak chéval and chéval tartare (horse meat), but slurped briny New Brunswick oysters, nibbled away at delicately pan-fried sweet breads, and tore into duck two ways (seared breast and confit leg).